Surf’s up,
Heads are down,
Timing their move,
Concentrated frown,
Salt lips,
Hard swallow,
Adrenalin pumping,
There is no tomorrow,
The white horses charge,
Their chariots follow,
Surfing speeding waves,
Above a spray crested hollow,
For just a few seconds,
Taming the waves,
Anticipating the way
That nature behaves,
With triumphant abandon,
And balance supreme,
Living the moment,
Living the dream …...
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