Surfer

awake all night scared at first light i can hear the roar it excites me to the core i smell it in the air its here for those who dare line after line a sight so fine ruler edge lumps of water the earth has awoken her sleeping daughter from far away they travel to me i am gifted a prize from the sea they crash on the sand from the distant land the swell is here forget last nights beer grab our boards travel away from the hoards secret wave peels on the sand so lucky i am to live in this land fear and excitement,turn to a smile as i ride the wave for more than a mile on my twin fin in classic style will i ever remove this grinning smile some are born far in land others are born from the sand people that see the oceans motion return to the sea out of pure devotion